All the Pieces

A few mornings back I was pleased to see a familiar face walk into the FoST workshop, where I was in the midst of building a prototype solar panel cooker.

Maya Gurung, a super progressive hotel owner who I interviewed during our trek around Annapurna Circuit, was visiting with her son. She remembered my sales pitch for FoST from her hotel in Yak Kharka, and stopped in to talk with Sanu for a bit after seeing the small FoST sign on the main street in Galkophaka the day prior. She had told me during the interview that she'd experimented with briquette making on her own in the past, but was very interested in the process and press offered by FoST, especially for use by her son, a lanky 20-year old with cerebral palsey.

Over the next hour, Sanu coached Maya's son through the processes of creating paper pulp, cutting up leaves and grasses, mixing them into a slurry of other ingredients, and pressing the slurry into briquettes. He picked everything up pretty quickly and had a huge grin on his face the whole time. He understood the concept of money, and got extra excited about the products he was creating when he learned each one was worth a few rupees.

He had so much fun that the next day he convinced his mom to bring him back so he could make a few more..

Watching all this made everything FoST stands for really fall into place for me. Here in the middle of a fairly chaotic and undeveloped nation was a mentally challenged man having a blast turning readily available waste materials into an uber-economical cooking fuel that his mom could use in her hotels. So much good on so many levels..

Yams!

On Tuesday we were invited to celebrate Makar Sankranti, celebrating the new month (Nepali calendar) and return of the sun, with a few of our new friends down the street from Papa's House. The day has a few traditions which folks seemed to loosely abide by: you're not supposed to utter a single word before taking a bath in the morning; and everyone is supposed to eat a TON of yams, roti (rice-based bread), and sweets.

A few of the other volunteers and I had a seat on a rug outside our friends' combined home and restaurant and pawed through a FEAST of boiled yams (six or seven varieties I think..), sweet potatoes, roti, green buckwheat balls, candied stuff, yak butter, burnt sugar candies and milk tea. The yams were only boiled and cut into big chunks, and silverware was nowhere to be seen, so eating them was a fun mess of starchy finger-peeling. I never imagined I'd eat so many yams in one sitting!!!

To top it all off, everyone proudly wore a yam-starch tikka on their forehead (at least in the morning) to mark the day.

Whirlwind of Rhythm

Happy New Year!

A few updates just before the power goes out again:

- New Years Eve was a hoot: we helped demonstrate FoST briquettes and stoves at a table in the middle of Thamel until dusk, and then had a delicious traditional Newari dinner with solar-distilled whiskey at Sanu's house. Too tired to party, we Skyped our parents and passed out just after our clock struck 12.

- Load shedding (code for brown-out periods) increased to 12 hours per day throughout Nepal. Most days (but not all) we have power from 8am-2pm, and 8pm-2am.

- Skylark English School, attended by most of the kids from Papa's House, had a 'Sports Day' on Saturday to launch a 2-week winter vacation. Held at the National Police Academy, around 350 kids ranging from 4-17 years old displayed insanely disciplined choreographed drills and marches, and duked it out in 40 separate events, including 'Eat the Banana', 'Put the Shoe', 'Dress the Princess', and classics such as 'Wheelbarrow Race', '400m Relay', and '100m Dash'. Despite the fact that the event took ALLL day long, it was great fun to see so many active kids and their supportive parents.

- Although Ashley wasn't able to take the 2-week course at the Ayurvedic clinic (they couldn't start until the beginning of Feb), she found a doctor at the Ayurvedic hospital downtown who invited her to shadow him for the next month. Today was day #1, and she had a great time.

- Austin bought his plane tix to Nepal, and will be here March 6 - 25 .. longer and earlier than we were expecting! Since he'll be here almost twenty days, we'll most likely try to put together a self-support climbing trip in either Langtang (north of Kathmandu) or out of the Annapurna Base Camp.. I'm looking forward to attempting a peak (even a relatively small one) while we're in the Himalayas.

- Both of these factors affect our intended schedule; we're now planning to spend most of February installing energy-efficient infrastructure and helping out at the home for rescued girls in Narti (near Lamahi, in the Dang District, S-SW Nepal). I'll also go for there for a few days in the next week or two to do some preliminary research. April will be primarily spent in and around Trisuli Bazaar, although that could definitely change.

- Otherwise I've been spending my days developing concepts at FoST and working on a few other projects. We're definitely getting into a comfortable pattern, and developing some great friendships here.

Annapurna Journals

We've been back in Kathmandu for nearly a week now (time flies!!) and we've been busy busy busy!

Amongst other things, I've been preparing the hundreds of photos I took on the trek and cherry-picking the best ones to post in the Gallery section of nepal.ethanfsmith.com. In lieu of writing a lot about the experience here, I decided to try writing a photo-journal on this trip, and wrote captions for just about every photo while we were on the trail. At the moment the photos haven't all been uploaded, but you can explore our first few days here.

Coming back into the chaos that is Kathmandu was surprisingly pain-free after our 19 fantastic days on the trail and an uber-relaxing 18 hours in Pokhara. After unpacking a bit at the boy's home and recovering from an exceptionally long bus ride, we celebrated Christmas eve by grabbing yummy coffee, cinnamon rolls, and chocolate croissants in Thamel (Kathmandu's touristy district -- and home to many yummy bakeries, including our favorite: The Pumpernickle Bakery), and then splitting up for a few hours to do a little Christmas shopping for eachother. We even bought knit stockings ahead of time so Santa would have something to fill :)

This was our first Christmas away from our families, and we are very thankful that we had the opportunity to have multiple video-conferences with loved ones during their holiday festivities and our own. Still -- we missed being around friends, family, and egg nog, and made us excited to be around for the holidaze next year...

Only 5% of Nepalese are Christian, and in Kathmandu Christmas is acknowledged, but not heavily celebrated. At Papa's House, on the other hand, Christmas is a much anticipated event, and the boys here were treated to presents galore under a small tree (at 5am no less), hot chocolate, Christmas movies, and a very festive spirit. The star of this Christmas was a new puppy, a very cute, very soft, very small female mutt the boys decided to name Snowball (picture to come). While we (and the other volunteers) were a bit dubious of this idea at first, Snowball is acclimating to this place very well, and has been under the very good care of Vinod, the 20-something Nepali man-cub who looks after the boys here.

In the days since, Ashley has been researching and visiting a nearby Ayurvedic clinic that she hopes to take a comprehensive course from, and has spent a few days playing with the babies at a government-sponsored orphanage here in Kathmandu (I visited for a bit today -- the babies are so responsive to any attention that is given them that even spending a few hours there was a very rewarding experience).

Meanwhile, I've been compiling photos, piecing together data from research I did on the trek for a pending report, conceptualizing new ideas with Sanu at FoST, and laying the groundwork for the next four months we have to play with here in Nepal (where time is already flying).

We'll reside primarily in Kathmandu for at least the next few weeks while I work closely with FoST and Ashley (hopefully) takes courses at the Ayurvedic clinic. Then we're off to Narti and Trisuli Bazaar to implement FoST products, help with basic health care, and teach what we can about basic resource conservation.

Back in Pokhara

We arrived back in Pokhara a few hours ago from a wonderful 19 days on the trail. We had an amazing time and have many stories to share. We're taking an early bus back to Kathmandu tomorrow and I'll be posting a recap within the next few days.

For now, we're basking in the glow provided by our first hot showers since Thailand, and are about take our guide, Peter, out on the town for his thirty-somethingth birthday.

Namaste!

To the Hills

It became apparent during the our first few days in Kathmandu that Ashley and I needed to escape to the hills sooner than later in order to get a true taste of rural Nepal. While our initial plan was to jump straight into work here, we found ourselves a bit stuck while trying to define and schedule our time over the next five months. The problem? We're hoping to accomplish a myriad of things in rural Nepal, but have no context to base our direction or decisions on. Several people recommended we go on a trek (tourist-speak for 'a long walk') to experience another of the culture here. We first planned on a short week-long self-supported trip in the mountains of Langtang, to the north of Kathmandu, leaving November 29. However, when another volunteer at Papa's House, Krish, invited us to come with him on a guided trip around the Annapurna Circuit, we quickly decided we didn't have any good reasons to say "no." We were planning on doing this trek in the spring because December is a bit past the recommended season for this route, but since weather here has been holding a pretty nice sunny pattern, we all figured (guide service included) that we would be good to go.

The guide service we're working with, Alps in Nepal, has a deal with NOH, in which 10% of the fees from volunteers who trek with the service go back to NOH. After spending a bit of time talking them down to an all-inclusive fee we could all chew on, we were told a realistic start-date for this 20-day trip wouldn't be until the following Wednesday, December 3. As we soon found, we'd need every one of those extra days in Kathmandu in order to learn some basic Nepali, visit a few of the tourist areas (finally!), replicate our documents, extend our visas, replace my walk-around lens (the aperture stopped working intermittantly .. probably due to some Thai & Nepali grit), buy snacks for the trail, do laundry, track down some Nepali kayakers who will be here in the spring, and have a few more meetings with Sanu at FoST. The horrible traffic, short days, and unpredictable power outages in this city make errands take a LONG time, and getting around is a bit draining.

We miraculously managed to finish up all of our tasks tonight, and are all packed and ready for our 6 AM departure towards the west.

Being a client on such a straight-forward hike is really strange for me .. I have almost always been a guide or independent in similar situations .. and I'm really weirded out by the porter-factor. Granted, we're going to be lodged and fed in small villages every night of this journey, so we don't need tents or cooking equipment, and we're not doing any climbing, so we don't need any technical equipment, but these guys are still going to be hauling our gear from straps on their foreheads as we, the clients, bobble merrily along with nary a care in the world on our 'holiday.' Perhaps even weirder than the porter-factor: I don't need to worry about ANY logistics.. we all just follow directions and relax. While I feel like all this service takes away from the adventure a bit, it's also the established norm on the Annapurna Circuit, so by partaking in the guide/porter option we're actually getting the 'whole' experience?? Either way, I'm stoked on our guide, Peter, and am really excited to get out of the city for a while.

I'll still be doing some volunteer work while trekking, and had good conversations with Sanu the past few days about things I can start sketching, learning, and sharing while on this mini-adventure. At all of our stops, I'll be interviewing cooks and lodge-owners about the alternative technologies they use to cook food, heat water, purify water, deal with solid waste, etc.. in order find out how some of these technologies can be improved. We're packing a few kgs of Sanu's briquttes to demonstrate where appropriate, and have a host of leaflets, videos (believe it or not, many of these remote lodges have TVs hooked up to solar-panel-powered batteries), and price lists we'll use to try and hawk Sanu's wares. In addition, I'll be experimenting with new solar-cooker forms, and sketching a bunch of ideas that I'll have the chance to build at FoST's shop in Kathmandu upon our return. I'm looking forward to this side project, and think this location will be a great place to learn and think.

A grand schedule for our time in Nepal finally began to emerge from the woodwork today, as Ashley, Sanu, and I sat down in front of a calendar and projected our goals forward. For us, this whole trip has been a study in creating our own multi-faceted adventure, and we're finally at a point where we have enough knowledge and context to start pinpointing some specific projects and needs.

At the moment, we're looking at spending another few weeks in Kathmandu upon our return, during which time I'll be primarily working with Sanu on refining existing designs and (hopefully) creating a few new ones, and Ashley hopes to take a two-week course in Ayurvedic healing. In late January through early March, we're looking at spending time in and around Trisuli Bazaar and Narti. In Trisuli, Ashley will shadow in a clinic, and I'll focus on introducing and implementing Sanu's briquette stoves to one of the schools NOH supports in a village that is a two hour hike from the main town. NOH helps support a home for rescued Kamlari girls in very-rural Narti (located in south-central Nepal), and we will help arrange a FoST workshop there, so that the rescued girls can learn to make briquettes from waste and produce a fantastic alternative to the wood currently used for cooking and boiling water.

Come mid-March our former housemate, Austin, is planning to visit us for two weeks, and we'll probably go off on a fun climb somewhere. We're saving April for project wrap-ups .. and who knows what else .. there are a lot of cool potentials in the pipeline.

We won't have any computer or internet access while we're on the Annapurna Circuit, so wish us the best, and check back just before Christmas to see pictures and read stories.. We should be back in Kathmandu December 23.

Cheers!

FoST Workshop

We spent our first three days here observing a workshop put on by FoST (Foundation for Sustainable Technologies), one of the organizations we're planning to work with, on how to make cooking briquettes from waste materials. The workshop provided us a wonderful way to get to know Sanu Kaji, the founder of FoST whom I've been corresponding with, become acquainted with the briquette-making process, and interact with the nearly forty urban and rural Nepalese men and women in attendance. The workshop was held at a building that was still under construction at the new bus station in Kathmandu (Gongabu Bus Park), and we took over one side of the concrete roof (soon to become the floor of the second story).

The workshop was sponsored by two Rotary clubs, and most attendees were members of various Nepali organizations who received a stipend to attend the conference with. Nonetheless, it was encouraging to see just about everybody get down and dirty on the Bus Park roof as we manually pulped office paper, cut up long grass and sticks into tiny bits, mashed it all into a slurry with our bare feet, squeezed the water out and created briquettes with simple presses, and left everything to dry in the hot winter sun. The resulting briquettes are far more efficient and long-lasting than wood, create 70% less smoke than wood, do not contribute to deforestation, are the least expensive fuel option on the Nepalese market, and can be produced by rural villages from their waste materials and other quickly renewing resources (grasses/nuts/etc..).

On the first evening of the workshop, Sanu Kaji invited Ashley and I over to his place in Thamel for a drink and dinner. After a taxi-ride through the worst grid-lock of my life, a stop the butcher, and a harrowing game of follow-the-leader through more dark-crazy-crowded-narrow streets, we sat down in Sanu's sitting room and ate a delicious traditional meal prepared by Sanu's wife (using a chicken we picked up from the butcher just before), drank deliciously smooth homemade whiskey, and talked about projects to come in the months ahead.

By the end of the workshop Ashley and I had made friends with a bunch of Nepalese folks, two other volunteers (a Frenchman who seems to be involved with every NGO in Nepal, his Japanese
girlfriend, and a Shell employee from Singapore who is helping Sanu with marketing), and the FoST crew. It was great to watch the pride participants took in their work, and they were properly rewarded during a closing ceremony, complete with certificates signed by the dignitaries from the Rotary.

All in all, this was a really fun way to be introduced to 'real' Nepal, and set us up well for a productive experience with FoST.